What is a W-body car?
General Motors classifies cars
as different body types. Cars of the same body type are built on the
same platform, utilizing the same unibody frame and most drivetrain
components. W-body cars are front-wheel drive midsize cars first
introduced in 1987 as a 1988 model year. They were GM's answer to the
then radical and sleek-designed 1986 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable
twins. W-body cars started out as sleek, aerodynamic 2-door coupes, and
4-door body styles were added in 1990. The first generation of W-body
cars are the 1988-96 Buick Regal, 1990-94 Chevrolet Lumina, 1988-97
Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, and 1988-96 Pontiac Grand Prix. They were
later to be replaced by the second generation W-body cars, which are a
total ground-up redesign. They consist of the 1997+ Buick
Century/Regal, 1997+ Pontiac Grand Prix, 1998+ Oldsmobile Intrigue, and
2000+ Chevrolet Monte Carlo and Impala. There were also modified
versions of the first-generation W-body cars such as the 1995-99
Chevrolet Lumina and Monte Carlo. I call those generation 1.5.
Where can I
get a full W-Body service manual for my vehicle?
Easy, Helm Inc. sells full manuals for very reasonable
prices. These are totally better than a basic Chilton's or anything
like that sort. Helm provides full wiring diagrams, assembly pictures,
and even diagnostic tables to find the exact problem on your W-body.
Check out Helm Inc. for their toll free number to order it to your home
or garage.
Can I
install a 180 - degree thermostat in my vehicle?
A 180 - degree stat will work perfectly fine, as will a 160 degree
stat. The idea behind the cooler stat is to lower the operating
temperature of the engine, and for cars with stock intake setups, to
lower intake air temp. However the intake air is not going to matter by
the thermostat nearly as much as under hood temps from the exhaust
system, or the amount of air flowing into the engine bay (while
driving, sitting idle doesn't do much).
So what does lowering the thermostat rating really do? The cylinder
walls are cooler and that means they don't expand as much. Its probably
not even noticeable for a 180 thermostat, but a 160 thermostat may have
an effect on cylinder wall wear. It may still be negligible but
something to take precautionary measures. Yet, the lower engine temp
will also mean cooler heads and intake manifolds (though the intake
charge itself will cool the intakes off while driving). Lower head
temps can help against pre-detonation.
The negative effects of a lower stat include higher emissions,
possibility for increased cylinder wear, and more frequent oil changes.
Oil needs to reach a certain temp to burn off unwanted contaminants in
the oil system. It is unproven thus far as to what effect the coolant
temp will actually have on the oil temp, but again, want to mention all
aspects of the modification.
The computer / electrical side of running a low temperature thermostat
is mostly fine. There are very few parts of the programming that deal
with the temperature range around the stock thermostat settings. You
would be hard pressed to notice anything at all with a scan tool, let
alone driving. Your car will go into 'closed loop' with a 160, 180, or
195 degree thermostat. As long as the coolant reaches about 4 degrees
F, you will not have an issue with the closed loop operation. The
rumors about excessive MPG losses are again, rumors. It may get worse
mileage because of the other factors from the cooler stat, but the
computer is not dumping in fuel trying to reach 195 degrees.
However, to see the full effects of a lower temperature thermostat, you
may want to install a manual fan switch or have your computer
programmed to turn the fans on close to your thermostat temperature.
Also, an alternative, based on application, you can match the turn - on
period of the radiator fans to start up near or at stock thermostat,
then getting a cooler thermostat; this too will help when you are
driving.
Is it
possible for such an old / high mileage car to run a Nitrous Oxide
System?
Well, this is a more complicated question. First off,
think of what you are asking the engine to do. It must work harder, run
at a higher temperature, but on the other hand it's only at a couple
times a week for about 20 seconds or less. My best thing to say is that
your the only one who knows the condition of the engine, so read
through the FAQ's of the company your thinking about purchasing the
system from. They have great staffs for answering questions of this
sort via e-mail or by phone. But remember, don't think your stock
engine will handle more than a 70hp shot, unless you rebuilt the engine
to accept a shot of NOS higher than this. If you really want to kill
the motor, try handling a 120hp, 150hp, or 200hp shot... e-mail me and
tell me what you think after you melt your piston rings.
Are there
any companies that produce a supercharger / turbocharger system?
Unfortunately, no. There has been some rumors that RSM Racing would
have produced a system for the DOHC setup which was supposed to be out
by spring of 2002 but that hasn't pulled through as far as I aware. The
only thing we can all do is either sit back and wait or create a custom
one ourselves. But, if you own a 3.4 SFI V6, a 3.1 SFI V6 or even a 2.8
/ 3.1 MPFI V6, RSM Racing does now have a supercharger set-up for you
car, and what a job they've done! Make sure to take a look!
What about
installing a supercharged 3.8 liter V6 in my W-Body, they fit in
right...?
Yes they in fact do! On most of the W-bodies the main
thing needed is to redo the wiring. But Tom has already made up a
wiring harness that will assist you in the install. You need to make
sure you have all the parts needed for this swap (i.e. entire engine
with all components, transmission, transaxle). For more info on this
check out www.l67swap.com.
Have a question that's just burning a hole in your
mind? No problem, just e-mail
me, and I will try and get you the
most up-to-date information I can. But also trust your fellow gear
heads and check out any W-Body or GM based web forums to post questions
and ideas. Best of luck!!!
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